Delhi is full of doors that look ordinary until you stop and ask, “What happened here?” Behind the crowded lanes of Chandni Chowk, beneath weathered balconies and carved wooden entrances, are grand havelis that once belonged to merchants, nobles, artists and powerful families. Their courtyards have witnessed romance, ambition, celebrations, secrets and the changing fortunes of Delhi.
On my Old Delhi Havelis Tour, I love slowing down for these forgotten corners. Instead of simply showing you an old building, I tell you about the people who lived behind its walls—and the Delhi that existed centuries ago.
Exploring the hidden doors of Old Delhi on an Old Delhi Havelis Tour with Harry.
Today, your Old Delhi Walking Companion takes you through some of these remarkable havelis, uncovering the people, romances, ambitions and secrets hidden behind their old doors. I hope this walk will show you why Old Delhi is best experienced on foot—with someone who can turn its forgotten buildings into living stories.
Come with me. Let’s open the door. ❤️
Begum Samru Ki Haveli
“Ladies, look carefully at this building,” I tell them. “Today you see a crowded market, electrical shops and the signs of Bhagirath Palace. But once, this was the home of one of the most fascinating women in Delhi’s history.”
Begum Samru Ki Haveli during an Old Delhi Havelis Tour, sharing the fascinating stories behind one of Old Delhi’s historic palaces.
“Her name was Farzana. She began life as a young tawaif in the lanes of Chawri Bazaar, where music, dance and poetry were part of Delhi’s refined culture. But Farzana was not destined to remain there. She met the European mercenary Walter Reinhardt Sombre, and her life took a remarkable turn.”
“After his death, she inherited his military forces and gradually became a powerful leader in her own right. She entered the Mughal court, earned the respect of Emperor Shah Alam II, and became known as Begum Samru.”
I smile and point toward the old façade.
“Imagine that—in a world ruled mostly by men, this woman built her own power, commanded soldiers and entertained kings and British officials. And ladies, this magnificent haveli is one of the places where her extraordinary story still whispers through Old Delhi.”
