Exploring St. James Church on the Old Delhi Walk with Harry was an unforgettable journey through history. Harry’s wealth of knowledge and passion for this historic site brought it to life. She skillfully narrated the stories of this hallowed ground, making every step an adventure into Delhi’s past. Harry shared the fascinating tale of Colonel James Skinner, who built the church in 1836, and highlighted its significance during the British colonial period. Thank you, Harry….Kevin Australia
The Red Fort’s sunbaked ramparts buzzed with tourists as I spotted Kevin, his straw hat easily recognizable in the throng. Beside him stood a vision I hadn’t anticipated — a woman with fiery red hair and eyes that sparkled like emeralds. Kevin introduced her as Harry, a with a flair for the dramatic.
We embarked on a walk from Red Fort towards Kashmiri Gate, the heat a constant companion. Harry, however, seemed oblivious, weaving tales of the British Raj with the ease of a seasoned storyteller. Every cobbled street, every crumbling building held a story for her, and she painted them with such vivid descriptions that even the Red Fort seemed to shrink in comparison.
Suddenly, a flash of yellow caught my eye. A beautiful church, its Victorian architecture stark against the dusty backdrop, stood proudly. “St. James,” Harry announced, her voice hushed with reverence. “Built for the brave soldiers of the British Empire.”
Inside, stained glass windows cast colorful patterns on the worn pews. Harry pointed out ornate glasses and weathered gravestones, each whispering a story of a life lived and lost far from home. In a quiet corner, beneath a spreading banyan tree, we found a haven from the relentless sun.
The cool shade of St. James Church offered a welcome respite from the Delhi sun. “This,” Harry began, gesturing towards the elegant building, “is a story of love, loyalty, and a man who defied definition.”
We all leaned in, captivated by the glint in her emerald eyes. “Colonel James Skinner,” she continued, her voice dropping to a dramatic whisper, “was a Scotsman born in India, raised by a Rajput princess. He wasn’t quite British, not quite Indian, but a man who belonged to both worlds.”
Harry, our knowledgeable Delhi tour guide, began to weave a captivating tale of this venerable edifice. Nestled near Kashmiri Gate at the intersection of Church Road and Lothian Road, St. James Church holds a significant place in Delhi’s colonial history.
St. James Church Old Delhi History
Constructed in 1836 for Colonel James Skinner, the church stands as one of the oldest in the city. Harry explained that Skinner, of mixed European and Indian descent, built the church after a near-fatal injury in battle. Skinner vowed to build a church if he survived, and true to his word, he commissioned the church at his own expense of 95,000 rupees. Major Robert Smith designed the church in a Renaissance Revival style, with a cruciform plan reminiscent of the Florence Cathedral in Italy. The church features three porticoed porches, elaborate stained glass windows, and a central octagonal dome. It was consecrated on November 21, 1836, by the Bishop of Calcutta, Daniel Wilson.
During the British colonial period, St. James Church was the official church of the British Viceroy of India until the Cathedral Church of the Redemption was built in 1931. Harry pointed out the significance of this transition, noting how the church was a central place of worship for the British administration in Delhi. The church’s connection to the Viceroy added to its prestige, making it a landmark of colonial architecture and history.
We walked around the church, admiring its serene beauty and historical aura. Harry pointed out the copper ball and cross atop the church, which are replicas of a church in Venice. These were damaged during the 1857 revolt but were later replaced. The resilience of the church, surviving through India’s tumultuous history, added to its mystique.
Behind the church, Harry showed us a bungalow that once belonged to William Fraser, an influential British India civil servant. Fraser’s remains are buried in the church’s graveyard, adding another layer to the historical significance of the site. Harry recounted stories of Fraser’s contributions to Delhi’s administration and his close association with the church.
One of the most touching moments was when Harry talked about the special service held in 2003 to commemorate 200 years of Skinner’s Horse, the cavalry regiment raised by Skinner in 1803. Among the attendees were Margaret Skinner, the great-great-granddaughter-in-law of Colonel James Skinner, and several notable figures, including Admiral Sushil Kumar, retired Chief of Naval Staff, and Col. Douglas Gray, who commanded Skinner’s Horse from 1935 to 1947.
St. James Church Old Delhi Architecture
As we concluded our visit, Harry’s storytelling brought St. James Church to life. The church’s architectural grandeur, historical significance, and the personal stories of those connected to it made it a truly enriching experience. St. James Church stands not just as a place of worship but as a testament to Delhi’s layered history, bridging the colonial past with the vibrant present.
She pointed out the intricate details — the Greek cross plan, the elaborate stained glass windows, and the majestic dome reminiscent of Florence. “He even had the copper ball and cross on top,” Harry explained, “replicated from a church in Venice, a reminder of his love for travel and adventure, a spirit he shared with his beloved.”
But love stories, Harry sighed, rarely have happy endings. Tragedy struck, and Skinner’s love was lost. Yet, his devotion lived on. “He built a tomb for her within the church grounds,” Harry revealed, a touch of sadness in her voice, “a final resting place where they could be together, even in death.”
Skinner continued to lead his regiment with courage and distinction. Even during the Sepoy Mutiny of 1857, Skinner’s Horse remained loyal to the British, a testament to the Colonel’s leadership and unwavering loyalty.
“Though Skinner himself did not live to see it completed,” Harry concluded, “his legacy lives on in this church. It stands as a symbol of love, duty, and the extraordinary life of a man who defied convention.”
As sunlight filtered through the stained glass windows, casting colorful patterns on the floor, we couldn’t help but feel touched by Skinner’s story. St. James Church, once a witness to a forbidden love, now echoed with whispers of a bygone era, a reminder that love and loyalty can transcend even the most formidable walls.
“So,” I finally confessed, “your stories are quite captivating, but I’m more curious about yours.”
St. James Church Old Delhi Walk Snacks & Masala Tea
A smile, slow and teasing, played on Harry’s lips. “Perhaps over some street food, eh?”
As we savored the spicy tang of Chhole Bhature, the rumble of a passing train filled the air. Harry closed her eyes, lost in thought. “It carries echoes of their journeys,” she whispered, “a reminder of a bygone era.”
In that moment, I understood. Harry wasn’t just a guide; she was a time traveler, weaving history with the present, breathing life into the forgotten stories of Delhi’s past. And as the sun began its descent, painting the sky in hues of orange and gold, I knew this wasn’t just a walk; it was a journey through time, fueled by stories and a shared love for the city’s enchanting past.
Today, St. James’ Church continues to be a place of worship and a cherished heritage site. Its tranquil atmosphere and historical significance make it a must-visit for anyone exploring the rich tapestry of Old Delhi.
Timings:
- Summer (after Easter): 8:30 AM – 10:00 AM
- Winter (after 1st October): 9:00 AM – 10:30 AM
Location:
Church Rd, Mori Gate, New Delhi – 110006, India
How to Reach:
Easily accessible by metro, Kashmiri Gate station is just a short walk away.
Entry Fee:
Free for all visitors.
Best Time to Visit:
While the church can be visited year-round, Christmas is a particularly special time with festive celebrations.
